{"id":9459,"date":"2025-01-20T04:57:04","date_gmt":"2025-01-20T03:57:04","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/?p=9459"},"modified":"2025-01-20T04:57:33","modified_gmt":"2025-01-20T03:57:33","slug":"les-galapagos-visiteurs","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/?p=9459","title":{"rendered":"Les Gal\u00e1pagos\u00a0: visiteurs"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p><strong>Puerto Isidro Ayora<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Les Gal\u00e1pagos&nbsp;comptaient 60 000 visiteurs annuels en 1990. Ils sont d\u00e9sormais 250 000. Alors \u00e9videmment, c\u2019est peu par rapport aux 50 millions de touristes qui d\u00e9barquent \u00e0 Paris chaque ann\u00e9e. Mais pour un archipel d\u00e9j\u00e0 fragilis\u00e9 par le r\u00e9chauffement climatique et par pr\u00e8s de 500 ans d\u2019occupation humaine, la saturation n\u2019est plus tr\u00e8s loin.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Le probl\u00e8me c\u2019est que l\u2019\u00c9quateur est loin d\u2019\u00eatre un pays riche. Et donc il voit plut\u00f4t d\u2019un bon \u0153il cet afflux de devises (environ 200 millions de dollars). D\u2019autant plus que le gouvernement vient r\u00e9cemment de doubler la taxe d\u2019entr\u00e9e dans le parc national pour les \u00e9trangers (de 100 \u00e0 200 dollars, 20 millions bonus). Taxe qui sert exclusivement \u00e0 la pr\u00e9servation du parc&nbsp;? Rien n\u2019est moins s\u00fbr. Toujours est-il que si plus de touristes implique plus d\u2019argent, cela implique surtout plus de r\u00e9sidents pour accueillir ces visiteurs (c\u2019est th\u00e9oriquement devenu tr\u00e8s compliqu\u00e9 depuis 1998 d\u2019obtenir le statut de r\u00e9sident, mais des milliers d\u2019\u00c9quatoriens tentent malgr\u00e9 tout leur chance de mani\u00e8re ill\u00e9gale, attir\u00e9s par la promesse d\u2019argent facile gr\u00e2ce au tourisme)&nbsp;; plus de de nourriture \u00e0 importer (l\u2019archipel ne peut bien s\u00fbr pas produire suffisamment pour tout ce petit monde)&nbsp;; plus de d\u00e9chets \u00e0 g\u00e9rer (si les plages restent relativement propres, le plastique commence \u00e0 s\u2019accumuler par endroit, comme partout ailleurs dans le monde malheureusement)&nbsp;; plus de v\u00e9hicules polluants (bateaux, scooters, camionnettes)&nbsp;; et une sur-fr\u00e9quentation de certains sites (terrestres et marins), au grand dam des animaux, qui restent la principale richesse de ces \u00eeles. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u00c0 noter qu\u2019on a quand m\u00eame affaire, du moins pour les visiteurs \u00e9trangers, \u00e0 un tourisme de niche, pas vraiment accessible \u00e0 toutes les bourses (les touristes \u00c9quatoriens repr\u00e9sentent d\u00e9sormais 30% du flux total, mais ils sont g\u00e9n\u00e9ralement comme moi \u00e0 vivre sur terre dans des petites pensions, plut\u00f4t qu\u2019\u00e0 partir en croisi\u00e8re \u00e0 400 dollars par jour\u2026). Si l\u2019on veut uniquement faire bronzette en buvant des cocktails sur une plage tropicale, on ne va \u00e9videmment pas aux Gal\u00e1pagos&nbsp;! Ainsi j\u2019ai globalement crois\u00e9 de v\u00e9ritables amateurs de faune et de flore, et je n\u2019ai jusqu\u2019\u00e0 pr\u00e9sent pas observ\u00e9 de comportements inappropri\u00e9s. Toujours \u00e7a de pris. Par ailleurs diverses actions de r\u00e9gulation commencent aussi \u00e0 \u00eatre entreprises par les autorit\u00e9s. \u00c0 suivre.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-2 wp-block-gallery-1 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/PXL_20250119_203055140-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"9473\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/PXL_20250119_203055140-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-9473\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Sur les hauteurs<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/PXL_20250119_164813000-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"9461\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/PXL_20250119_164813000-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-9461\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">J&rsquo;imagine que si je descends, il faudra remonter&#8230;<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/PXL_20250119_163710294-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"9460\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/PXL_20250119_163710294-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-9460\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Aire de jeux<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/PXL_20250119_202041110-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"9472\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/PXL_20250119_202041110-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-9472\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">La porte de la jungle<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/PXL_20250119_203751420-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"9474\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/PXL_20250119_203751420-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-9474\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Sur l&rsquo;asphalte abandonn\u00e9<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/PXL_20250119_194415669-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"771\" data-id=\"9471\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/PXL_20250119_194415669-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-9471\" srcset=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/PXL_20250119_194415669-1024x771.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/PXL_20250119_194415669-300x226.jpg 300w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/PXL_20250119_194415669-768x578.jpg 768w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/PXL_20250119_194415669-1536x1157.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/PXL_20250119_194415669-2048x1542.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">R\u00e9sident local<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/PXL_20250119_170828716-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"9463\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/PXL_20250119_170828716-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-9463\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Altitude 0<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/PXL_20250119_172727546-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"771\" data-id=\"9464\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/PXL_20250119_172727546-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-9464\" srcset=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/PXL_20250119_172727546-1024x771.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/PXL_20250119_172727546-300x226.jpg 300w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/PXL_20250119_172727546-768x578.jpg 768w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/PXL_20250119_172727546-1536x1157.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/PXL_20250119_172727546-2048x1542.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Changement d&rsquo;ambiance<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/PXL_20250119_181950418-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"9468\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/PXL_20250119_181950418-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-9468\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Dans un superbe cama\u00efeu de couleurs<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/PXL_20250119_181717353-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"9467\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/PXL_20250119_181717353-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-9467\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Pas la mar\u00e9e id\u00e9ale pour nager&#8230;<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/PXL_20250119_184955377-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"771\" data-id=\"9470\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/PXL_20250119_184955377-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-9470\" srcset=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/PXL_20250119_184955377-1024x771.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/PXL_20250119_184955377-300x226.jpg 300w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/PXL_20250119_184955377-768x578.jpg 768w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/PXL_20250119_184955377-1536x1157.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/PXL_20250119_184955377-2048x1542.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">&#8230; mais parfaite pour photographier<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/PXL_20250119_170338024-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"9462\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/PXL_20250119_170338024-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-9462\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Oeufs \u00e0 venir<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/PXL_20250119_175801814-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"9465\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/PXL_20250119_175801814-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-9465\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Pas tapon<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/PXL_20250119_181028994-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"9466\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/PXL_20250119_181028994-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-9466\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Flamands roses lointains<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/PXL_20250119_182847054-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"9469\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/PXL_20250119_182847054-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-9469\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Intrigu\u00e9 par cet humain<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/PXL_20250120_012130687-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"9477\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/PXL_20250120_012130687-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-9477\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">On est dimanche !<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/PXL_20250119_205020720-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"771\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"9475\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/PXL_20250119_205020720-771x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-9475\" srcset=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/PXL_20250119_205020720-771x1024.jpg 771w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/PXL_20250119_205020720-226x300.jpg 226w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/PXL_20250119_205020720-768x1020.jpg 768w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/PXL_20250119_205020720-1157x1536.jpg 1157w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/PXL_20250119_205020720-1542x2048.jpg 1542w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/PXL_20250119_205020720-scaled.jpg 1928w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 771px) 100vw, 771px\" \/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Le bout du tunnel<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/PXL_20250119_234850766-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"9476\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/PXL_20250119_234850766-771x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-9476\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Nouveau mousse<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Puerto Isidro Ayora Les Gal\u00e1pagos&nbsp;comptaient 60 000 visiteurs annuels en 1990. Ils sont d\u00e9sormais 250 000. Alors \u00e9videmment, c\u2019est peu par rapport aux 50 millions&hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[44],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-9459","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-galapagos"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/9459","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=9459"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/9459\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":9479,"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/9459\/revisions\/9479"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=9459"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=9459"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=9459"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}