{"id":6909,"date":"2024-07-29T16:28:30","date_gmt":"2024-07-29T15:28:30","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/?p=6909"},"modified":"2024-07-29T16:28:59","modified_gmt":"2024-07-29T15:28:59","slug":"comme-une-odeur-de-soufre","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/?p=6909","title":{"rendered":"Comme une odeur de soufre"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p><strong>Berastagi<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Tandis que le Venezuela s\u2019enfonce un peu plus dans la dictature et le d\u00e9ni de d\u00e9mocratie (or \u00e7a fait longtemps qu\u2019une visite de ce pays me fait r\u00eaver, notamment pour aller voir les incroyables <em>tepuy<\/em>, mais il semblerait que ce ne soit pas encore pour tout de suite), je pars \u00e0 l\u2019assaut d\u2019un volcan (aucun lien). Il serait en effet dommage de traverser l\u2019Indon\u00e9sie sans aller jeter un \u0153il du c\u00f4t\u00e9 de ces monstres fumants.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Et \u00e7a tombe bien, parce qu\u2019\u00e0 Berastagi, on en a deux sous la main, le Sibayak et le Sinabung. Enfin plus qu\u2019un d\u00e9sormais&nbsp;: l\u2019ascension du Sinabung est d\u00e9sormais strictement interdite, car le coquinou s\u2019est violemment r\u00e9veill\u00e9 en 2010 apr\u00e8s plus de 400 ans de sieste, et depuis fait r\u00e9guli\u00e8rement des siennes de mani\u00e8re impromptue. Ronchon le p\u00e9p\u00e8re. On va \u00e9viter de se faire griller les mollets.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Direction donc le mont Sibayak, dans l\u2019ombre duquel se trouve la petite ville touristique de Berastagi (surtout pour les habitants de Medan, qui viennent y trouver une agr\u00e9able fra\u00eecheur \u00e0 1300 m d\u2019altitude). Le Sibayak se repose depuis une centaine d\u2019ann\u00e9es, mais est malgr\u00e9 tout actif dans son sommeil, avec larges \u00e9missions de fumerolles et sources d\u2019eau chaude. Un vrai volcan quoi. Bon pour les sources, on est loin du <em>onsen<\/em> japonais, juste quelques piscines en dur au sein de complexes h\u00f4teliers, je vais m\u2019en passer. Par contre l\u2019ascension jusqu\u2019au crat\u00e8re est plut\u00f4t sympathique, m\u00eame si pr\u00e8s du sommet l\u2019odeur de soufre est parfois intenable.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Il est conseill\u00e9 de prendre un guide pour cette grimpette. \u00c9videmment je n\u2019en ai pas pris. Et il est strictement d\u00e9conseill\u00e9 de redescendre par la face sud-est (la mont\u00e9e se faisant par l\u2019ouest). Je me suis longuement t\u00e2t\u00e9, mais je suis descendu par la face sud-est, histoire de faire une boucle. Il faut parfois savoir s\u2019amuser un peu. Bon, c\u2019\u00e9tait de la jungle assez dense et glissante, avec un sentier tr\u00e8s peu marqu\u00e9, je m\u2019en sors donc avec quelques h\u00e9sitations, des fringues couvertes de boue et un lot d\u2019\u00e9corchures sur les bras, mais l\u00e0 aussi c\u2019\u00e9tait plut\u00f4t sympathique. Et puis ensuite on dort mieux le soir&nbsp;!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-2 wp-block-gallery-1 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_050053690-scaled.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"6910\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_050053690-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-6910\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Mirage ?<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_052230813-scaled.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"6911\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_052230813-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-6911\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Premier aper\u00e7u<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_061835590-scaled.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"6912\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_061835590-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-6912\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Grimpette courb\u00e9e<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_063743056-scaled.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"6913\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_063743056-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-6913\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Premi\u00e8res fumerolles<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_064046833-scaled.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"6914\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_064046833-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-6914\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Et voil\u00e0 le crat\u00e8re ! Bien s\u00fbr l&rsquo;humain ne peut pas s&#8217;emp\u00eacher de pr\u00e9ciser qu&rsquo;il est pass\u00e9 par l\u00e0&#8230;<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_064640031-scaled.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"6916\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_064640031-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-6916\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Avec un peu de recul<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_065957748-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"771\" data-id=\"6917\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_065957748-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-6917\" srcset=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_065957748-1024x771.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_065957748-300x226.jpg 300w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_065957748-768x578.jpg 768w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_065957748-1536x1157.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_065957748-2048x1542.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Plan large<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_070253557-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"771\" data-id=\"6918\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_070253557-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-6918\" srcset=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_070253557-1024x771.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_070253557-300x226.jpg 300w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_070253557-768x578.jpg 768w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_070253557-1536x1157.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_070253557-2048x1542.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Plan extra-large<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_071640926-scaled.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"6919\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_071640926-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-6919\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">You shall not pass !<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_072710379-scaled.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"6920\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_072710379-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-6920\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Sentier de cr\u00eate<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_064502966-scaled.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"6915\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_064502966-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-6915\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Bon bah plus qu&rsquo;\u00e0 redescendre<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_073605427-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"771\" data-id=\"6921\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_073605427-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-6921\" srcset=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_073605427-1024x771.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_073605427-300x226.jpg 300w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_073605427-768x578.jpg 768w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_073605427-1536x1157.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_073605427-2048x1542.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Dans la rocaille<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_075031048-scaled.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"6922\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_075031048-771x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-6922\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Et dans la jungle (oui le sentier est l\u00e0)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_082427251-scaled.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"6923\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_082427251-771x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-6923\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Du bambou, c&rsquo;est bon signe<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_083121949-scaled.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"6924\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_083121949-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-6924\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Youpi, la civilisation !<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_084027663-scaled.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"6925\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_084027663-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-6925\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Un peu de g\u00e9othermie<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_090129804-scaled.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"6926\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_090129804-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-6926\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Si j&rsquo;avais eu la flemme de rentrer \u00e0 pied, Popeye \u00e9tait l\u00e0 !<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_090417411-scaled.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"6927\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_090417411-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-6927\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Mais nan, c&rsquo;est reparti<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_092728048-scaled.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"6930\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_092728048-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-6930\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Pour une bonne soupe<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_091433783-scaled.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"6929\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_091433783-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-6929\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Buffles au soleil<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_090901629-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"771\" data-id=\"6928\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_090901629-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-6928\" srcset=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_090901629-1024x771.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_090901629-300x226.jpg 300w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_090901629-768x578.jpg 768w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_090901629-1536x1157.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_090901629-2048x1542.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Dernier coup d&rsquo;oeil<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_113437304-scaled.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"6931\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/PXL_20240729_113437304-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-6931\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Et \u00e0 la maison pour le coucher du soleil<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Berastagi Tandis que le Venezuela s\u2019enfonce un peu plus dans la dictature et le d\u00e9ni de d\u00e9mocratie (or \u00e7a fait longtemps qu\u2019une visite de ce&hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[34],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-6909","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-indonesie"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6909","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=6909"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6909\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":6933,"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6909\/revisions\/6933"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=6909"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=6909"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=6909"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}