{"id":5172,"date":"2024-04-03T12:00:40","date_gmt":"2024-04-03T11:00:40","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/?p=5172"},"modified":"2024-04-03T12:00:40","modified_gmt":"2024-04-03T11:00:40","slug":"montagnes-sacrees","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/?p=5172","title":{"rendered":"Montagnes sacr\u00e9es"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p><strong>Dovan \u2192 Machapuchare Base Camp \u2013 4 h 45 de marche<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Je suis d\u00e9sormais au camp de base du Machapuchare (3700 m), un nom largement abusif puisqu\u2019en r\u00e9alit\u00e9 la montagne est tellement sacr\u00e9e qu\u2019il est strictement interdit d\u2019en faire l\u2019ascension. En effet, elle serait la demeure de Shiva, rien que \u00e7a\u2026 Si le N\u00e9pal commercialise largement ses hauts sommets (sources appr\u00e9ciables de devises \u00e9trang\u00e8res), celui-ci demeure hors-limites, malgr\u00e9 son attrait. Sauf en 1957, quand une exp\u00e9dition britannique obtint une autorisation sp\u00e9ciale pour grimper dessus, \u00e0 la stricte condition de s\u2019arr\u00eater avant le sommet, histoire de ne pas d\u00e9ranger Shiva. Ils \u00e9taient observ\u00e9s \u00e0 la jumelle, pas question de tricher&nbsp;! Et ils tinrent parole, s\u2019arr\u00eat\u00e8rent \u00e0 environ 50 m\u00e8tres de la fine ar\u00eate sommitale, puis rebrouss\u00e8rent chemin. Depuis, plus personne sur les versants enneig\u00e9s du Machapuchare. En tout cas la montagne est belle, pas forc\u00e9ment tr\u00e8s haute par rapport \u00e0 ses voisines d\u00e9passant les 8000 (oui elle ne culmine qu\u2019\u00e0 un petit 6998 m), mais son original sommet en \u00ab&nbsp;queue de poisson&nbsp;\u00bb fait d\u2019elle une vraie c\u00e9l\u00e9brit\u00e9 au N\u00e9pal.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Encore plus sacr\u00e9, mais \u00e0 300 kilom\u00e8tres d\u2019ici, en plein Tibet\u00a0: le massif mont Kailash. Sa particularit\u00e9\u00a0: il rev\u00eat une grande importance pour quatre religions diff\u00e9rentes\u00a0: l\u2019hindouisme (demeure de Shiva, oui le dieu destructeur poss\u00e8de plusieurs r\u00e9sidences, normal), le bouddhisme (demeure du Bouddha de la compassion dont le Dala\u00ef-lama est la r\u00e9incarnation), le ja\u00efnisme (c\u2019est cens\u00e9ment \u00e0 son sommet que le fondateur de cette religion a re\u00e7u l\u2019illumination), et le culte b\u00f6n (un pr\u00e9-bouddhisme chamanique plus gu\u00e8re pratiqu\u00e9 que par 2-3 acharn\u00e9s\u2026). Lui non plus ne se gravit pas, mais il est possible d\u2019en faire le tour, sa circumambulation de 51 km \u00e9tant l\u2019un des p\u00e8lerinages les plus importants d\u2019Asie. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u00c0 part \u00e7a encore une \u00e9tape spectaculaire, avec pr\u00e8s de 1500 m de d\u00e9nivel\u00e9, cons\u00e9quent. D\u00e9but toujours au milieu des superbes rhododendrons fleuris (je commence \u00e0 les distinguer\u2026), puis soudain la for\u00eat se fait plus rare, le paysage s\u2019ouvre, et la neige fait son apparition, avec de belles coul\u00e9es d\u2019avalanches, qu\u2019il faut parfois traverser. L\u2019air se rar\u00e9fiant, certains randonneurs semblent presque \u00e0 l\u2019arr\u00eat, ne soulevant que p\u00e9niblement un pied apr\u00e8s l\u2019autre. Enfin la d\u00e9livrance, les quelques b\u00e2timents du camp de base, avec la promesse d\u2019un abri, d\u2019une douche chaude et d\u2019un bon repas. Plus du wifi bien s\u00fbr\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-2 wp-block-gallery-1 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/PXL_20240403_003730842-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"5173\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/PXL_20240403_003730842-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5173\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Panorama au r\u00e9veil &#8211; un peu moins grandiose, mais bon, on ne va pas faire la fine bouche<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/PXL_20240403_020814298-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"5176\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/PXL_20240403_020814298-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5176\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Un sanctuaire au milieu des cascades<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/PXL_20240403_013321820-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"5174\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/PXL_20240403_013321820-771x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5174\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">L&rsquo;eau est partout<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/PXL_20240403_013946224-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"5175\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/PXL_20240403_013946224-771x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5175\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Le loup souffle \u00e7a en 2 secondes&#8230;<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/PXL_20240403_020936318-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"5177\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/PXL_20240403_020936318-771x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5177\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Chacun y va de son cairn&#8230;<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/PXL_20240403_022748350-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"5178\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/PXL_20240403_022748350-771x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5178\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Bon lui on ne peut pas le louper<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/PXL_20240403_022923283-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"5179\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/PXL_20240403_022923283-771x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5179\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">La for\u00eat semble ne jamais devoir finir<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/PXL_20240403_043749270-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"5185\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/PXL_20240403_043749270-771x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5185\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Et soudain me voil\u00e0 en hiver !<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/PXL_20240403_032759235-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"5181\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/PXL_20240403_032759235-771x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5181\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Petite coul\u00e9e d&rsquo;avalanche \u00e0 traverser<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/PXL_20240403_034221805-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"5182\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/PXL_20240403_034221805-771x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5182\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Cascades \u00e0 gogo<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/PXL_20240403_032100819-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"5180\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/PXL_20240403_032100819-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5180\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Encore quelques marches, faut pas d\u00e9conner<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/PXL_20240403_045258278-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"771\" data-id=\"5188\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/PXL_20240403_045258278-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5188\" srcset=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/PXL_20240403_045258278-1024x771.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/PXL_20240403_045258278-300x226.jpg 300w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/PXL_20240403_045258278-768x578.jpg 768w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/PXL_20240403_045258278-1536x1157.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/PXL_20240403_045258278-2048x1542.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Et une belle vall\u00e9e glaciaire<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/PXL_20240403_034514771-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"5183\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/PXL_20240403_034514771-771x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5183\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Mi-ensoleillement<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/PXL_20240403_044557964-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"5186\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/PXL_20240403_044557964-771x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5186\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">On va \u00e9viter de glisser&#8230;<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/PXL_20240403_044733953-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"5187\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/PXL_20240403_044733953-771x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5187\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Un peu de culture<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/PXL_20240403_040933092-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"5184\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/PXL_20240403_040933092-771x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5184\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Laitue des montagnes ?<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/PXL_20240403_050449357-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"5189\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/PXL_20240403_050449357-771x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5189\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Toujours plus haut<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/PXL_20240403_050639735-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"5190\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/PXL_20240403_050639735-771x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5190\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Un petit coup d&rsquo;oeil en arri\u00e8re<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/PXL_20240403_051215252-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"5191\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/PXL_20240403_051215252-771x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5191\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Cascade de neige, pour changer<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/PXL_20240403_054643138_2-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"771\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"5192\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/PXL_20240403_054643138_2-771x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5192\" srcset=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/PXL_20240403_054643138_2-771x1024.jpg 771w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/PXL_20240403_054643138_2-226x300.jpg 226w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/PXL_20240403_054643138_2-768x1020.jpg 768w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/PXL_20240403_054643138_2-1156x1536.jpg 1156w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/PXL_20240403_054643138_2-1542x2048.jpg 1542w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/PXL_20240403_054643138_2-scaled.jpg 1927w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 771px) 100vw, 771px\" \/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">L&rsquo;h\u00e9lico fait des A\/R pour secourir les touristes pr\u00e9somptueux<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/PXL_20240403_065306682-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"5193\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/PXL_20240403_065306682-771x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5193\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Arriv\u00e9e quelques minutes avant la temp\u00eate<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/PXL_20240403_102613198-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"5194\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/04\/PXL_20240403_102613198-771x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5194\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">On va se marrer demain !<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Dovan \u2192 Machapuchare Base Camp \u2013 4 h 45 de marche Je suis d\u00e9sormais au camp de base du Machapuchare (3700 m), un nom largement&hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[28],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-5172","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-nepal"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5172","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=5172"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5172\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":5195,"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5172\/revisions\/5195"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=5172"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=5172"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=5172"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}