{"id":4833,"date":"2024-03-20T17:44:42","date_gmt":"2024-03-20T16:44:42","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/?p=4833"},"modified":"2024-03-20T17:44:43","modified_gmt":"2024-03-20T16:44:43","slug":"petit-tour-chez-les-moghols","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/?p=4833","title":{"rendered":"Petit tour chez les Moghols"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p>Jaipur <strong>\u2192 <\/strong>Agra \u2013 4h de train<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Le Rajasthan a \u00e9t\u00e9 \u00e0 la hauteur de sa r\u00e9putation d\u2019importante destination touristique&nbsp;: les palais et les forts sont de pures merveilles d\u2019\u00e9l\u00e9gance et d\u2019ing\u00e9nierie, diss\u00e9min\u00e9s dans un cadre semi-d\u00e9sertique mettant en valeur les couleurs \u00e9clatantes des villes. \u00c9videmment toute cette beaut\u00e9 va de pair avec un harc\u00e8lement nettement accru, la face sombre de l\u2019Inde qui g\u00e2che r\u00e9guli\u00e8rement le plaisir de l\u2019exploration.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Il va \u00eatre d\u00e9sormais temps de conclure cette lente remont\u00e9e sud-nord du sous-continent\u00a0par un ultime \u00c9tat\u00a0: l\u2019Uttar Pradesh. Fini le d\u00e9sert, la r\u00e9gion, bordant le N\u00e9pal et l\u2019Himalaya, est plus temp\u00e9r\u00e9e (bon avec quand m\u00eame des temp\u00e9ratures qui montent \u00e0 45\u00b0C juste avant la mousson\u2026), et travers\u00e9e par de puissantes rivi\u00e8res, dont la plus sacr\u00e9e d\u2019entre toutes, le Gange. Par cons\u00e9quent, beaucoup de gens se sont install\u00e9s dans le coin. Vraiment, vraiment beaucoup. 200 millions. Pour une petite moiti\u00e9 de la surface de la France. La quintessence du surpeuplement. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Mais c\u2019est surtout un changement d\u2019ambiance historique qui m\u2019attend ici. Du moins \u00e0 Agra, car me voici dans\u00a0l\u2019une des capitales de l\u2019Empire Moghol\u00a0: pendant un si\u00e8cle, \u00e0 cheval entre le XVI<sup>\u00e8me<\/sup> et le XVII<sup>\u00e8me<\/sup>, la ville \u00e0 son apog\u00e9e sera le centre politique et culturel de l\u2019Inde (avant que Delhi ne prenne la rel\u00e8ve). Fini les antiques temples, ici ce sont les mosqu\u00e9es s\u00e9culaires qui dominent le paysage. Enfin je dis \u00e7a, mais la part de la population musulmane de l\u2019Uttar Pradesh ne plafonne qu\u2019\u00e0 20%, contre 80% d\u2019hindous, exactement comme dans le reste du pays. Et malheureusement encore plus que dans le reste du pays, les deux communaut\u00e9s se mettent ici r\u00e9guli\u00e8rement sur la tronche depuis une trentaine d\u2019ann\u00e9es, nationalistes hindous contre moudjahidin, la b\u00eatise humaine \u00e0 son paroxysme. Toujours est-il que l\u2019impact des Moghols n\u2019est d\u00e9sormais gu\u00e8re plus que patrimonial. Mais quel patrimoine\u00a0: trois sites class\u00e9s \u00e0 l\u2019Unesco pour Agra et ses environs, le c\u00e9l\u00e9brissime Taj Mahal en t\u00eate\u00a0! J\u2019en salive d\u2019avance\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-2 wp-block-gallery-1 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/PXL_20240320_050235073-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"4853\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/PXL_20240320_050235073-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4853\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Dans les champs<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/PXL_20240320_081758118-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"771\" data-id=\"4836\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/PXL_20240320_081758118-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4836\" srcset=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/PXL_20240320_081758118-1024x771.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/PXL_20240320_081758118-300x226.jpg 300w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/PXL_20240320_081758118-768x578.jpg 768w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/PXL_20240320_081758118-1536x1157.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/PXL_20240320_081758118-2048x1542.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Je n&rsquo;ai jamais \u00e9t\u00e9 aussi pr\u00e8s&#8230;<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/PXL_20240320_073059954-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"4834\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/PXL_20240320_073059954-771x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4834\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Le m\u00e9tro immacul\u00e9 d&rsquo;Agra<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/PXL_20240320_073659345-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"4835\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/PXL_20240320_073659345-771x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4835\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Pas un portrait des plus flatteur<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/PXL_20240320_115049325-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"4852\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/PXL_20240320_115049325-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4852\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">On se pr\u00e9pare pour Holi !<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/PXL_20240320_085448106-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"771\" data-id=\"4837\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/PXL_20240320_085448106-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4837\" srcset=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/PXL_20240320_085448106-1024x771.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/PXL_20240320_085448106-300x226.jpg 300w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/PXL_20240320_085448106-768x578.jpg 768w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/PXL_20240320_085448106-1536x1157.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/PXL_20240320_085448106-2048x1542.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Le fort d&rsquo;Agra<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/PXL_20240320_111522706-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"4851\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/PXL_20240320_111522706-771x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4851\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Changement de style<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/PXL_20240320_090312667-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"4838\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/PXL_20240320_090312667-771x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4838\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Fini le Ganesh \u00e0 l&rsquo;entr\u00e9e (bon il y a quand m\u00eame un singe)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/PXL_20240320_091229500-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"4839\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/PXL_20240320_091229500-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4839\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Souvent une classe qui tra\u00eene<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/PXL_20240320_093400976-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"4842\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/PXL_20240320_093400976-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4842\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">En tout cas c&rsquo;est toujours classe<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/PXL_20240320_092337319-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"4840\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/PXL_20240320_092337319-771x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4840\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Toujours charg\u00e9<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/PXL_20240320_092443484-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"4841\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/PXL_20240320_092443484-771x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4841\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Et toujours de superbes portes<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/PXL_20240320_101541005-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"4846\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/PXL_20240320_101541005-771x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4846\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Les appartements de Sh\u00e2h Jah\u00e2n<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/PXL_20240320_095016146-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"4843\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/PXL_20240320_095016146-771x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4843\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Tout en finesse<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/PXL_20240320_100009824-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"4845\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/PXL_20240320_100009824-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4845\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Et la prison o\u00f9 il passa la fin de sa vie&#8230;<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/PXL_20240320_095713691-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"4844\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/PXL_20240320_095713691-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4844\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">&#8230; d\u00e9tr\u00f4n\u00e9 par l&rsquo;un de ses fils<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/PXL_20240320_102206862-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"4847\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/PXL_20240320_102206862-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4847\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Avec quand m\u00eame la vue sur la tombe de son \u00e9pouse pr\u00e9f\u00e9r\u00e9e<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/PXL_20240320_103542772-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"4848\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/PXL_20240320_103542772-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4848\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Vue qui attire aussi la foule<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/PXL_20240320_104101205-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"4849\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/PXL_20240320_104101205-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4849\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Hall pour les audiences publiques, 27 compartiments (3x3x3)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/PXL_20240320_104805649-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"4850\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/03\/PXL_20240320_104805649-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4850\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Plein de chipmunks pas farouches<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Jaipur \u2192 Agra \u2013 4h de train Le Rajasthan a \u00e9t\u00e9 \u00e0 la hauteur de sa r\u00e9putation d\u2019importante destination touristique&nbsp;: les palais et les forts&hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[27],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-4833","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-inde"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4833","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=4833"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4833\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":4855,"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4833\/revisions\/4855"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=4833"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=4833"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=4833"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}