{"id":4359,"date":"2024-02-26T20:05:29","date_gmt":"2024-02-26T19:05:29","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/?p=4359"},"modified":"2024-02-27T03:28:57","modified_gmt":"2024-02-27T02:28:57","slug":"bus-de-nuit-pour-pondichery-article-en-cours","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/?p=4359","title":{"rendered":"Bact\u00e9ries et yeux de poisson"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p><strong>Madurai<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>J\u2019avais surv\u00e9cu \u00e0 la circulation chaotique, aux vaches sacr\u00e9es, \u00e0 la chaleur \u00e9touffante, \u00e0 la promiscuit\u00e9 des bus publics, et m\u00eame aux \u00e9l\u00e9phants sauvages. Je pensais donc que plus rien ne pouvait m\u2019arriver. Mais j\u2019avais oubli\u00e9 que les plus grands dangers de l\u2019Inde ne sont pas macro mais microscopiques. Il suffit d\u2019\u00eatre un peu trop en confiance, de se permettre de manger et boire comme un local dans n\u2019importe quelle gargote, pour que de vicieuses bact\u00e9ries vous assaillent. J\u2019ai donc pass\u00e9, disons-le clairement, une assez mauvaise journ\u00e9e.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Pour autant, j\u2019ai quand m\u00eame r\u00e9ussi \u00e0 tra\u00eener mes gu\u00eatres dans un temple et un palais, mais c\u2019\u00e9tait tr\u00e8s laborieux. Dommage, car le spectaculaire temple de M\u00een\u00e2ksh\u00ee aurait m\u00e9rit\u00e9 un peu plus qu\u2019une visite \u00e0 moiti\u00e9 mourant\u2026 Petite l\u00e9gende\u00a0: le roi Malayadwaja et son \u00e9pouse Kanchanamalai veulent avoir un fils. Manque de pot, c\u2019est une petite fille qui na\u00eet, d\u00e9j\u00e0 \u00e2g\u00e9e de trois ans, avec de magnifiques yeux de poisson (toujours grand ouverts, symbole de sa conscience \u00e9veill\u00e9e) et pourvue de trois seins. Mais pas de panique, Shiva intervient aupr\u00e8s des parents d\u00e9sol\u00e9s, leur dit d\u2019\u00e9lever leur fille comme un fils, et qu\u2019elle perdrait son sein superflu lorsqu\u2019elle rencontrerait son futur mari. Soit. Ils la nomment Thathakai, et lui enseignent les arts martiaux, dans lesquels elle excelle. Lorsqu\u2019elle atteint l\u2019\u00e2ge de 21 ans, son p\u00e8re d\u00e9cide de la marier. Mais la jeune demoiselle n\u2019est pas trop emball\u00e9e \u00e0 cette id\u00e9e, et d\u00e9clare n\u2019accepter de se marier qu\u2019avec l\u2019homme qui serait capable de la battre. \u00c9videmment elle va mettre une racl\u00e9e \u00e0 tous les rois et princes de la r\u00e9gion. Puis Thathakai s\u2019en va parcourir le nord de l\u2019Inde, toujours dans sa qu\u00eate du guerrier ultime. Elle finit par arriver sur le mont Kailash (une montagne sacr\u00e9e), o\u00f9 elle rencontre Sundareshwarar, l\u2019avatar de Shiva. Et bim, magie, son troisi\u00e8me sein dispara\u00eet (m\u00eame pas besoin de combattre\u00a0!), et le jeune couple repart bras dessus bras dessous \u00e0 Madurai pour un gigantesque mariage. Suite \u00e0 quoi Thathakai range ses armes, pour devenir une \u00e9pouse fid\u00e8le et d\u00e9vou\u00e9e en la personne de M\u00een\u00e2ksh\u00ee, la D\u00e9esse aux yeux de poisson. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Que l\u2019on soit amateur de l\u00e9gendes ou non, le temple du XVII<sup>\u00e8me<\/sup> d\u00e9di\u00e9 \u00e0 M\u00een\u00e2ksh\u00ee est un des fleurons de l\u2019Inde du Sud\u00a0: 6 hectares, 12 <em>gopurams<\/em> (ces hautes tours pyramidales recouvertes d\u2019innombrables dieux et d\u00e9mons), un labyrinthe de couloirs et colonnades, et des milliers de fervents p\u00e8lerins. Ainsi que des r\u00e8gles de s\u00e9curit\u00e9 tr\u00e8s strictes : aucun appareil \u00e9lectronique dans l\u2019enceinte du temple, donc pas de photos \u00e0 vous mettre sous la dent. Presque anachronique de d\u00e9ambuler dans le gigantesque complexe en ne voyant personne plong\u00e9 dans son \u00e9cran de smartphone. De quoi se consacrer pleinement \u00e0 la pri\u00e8re\u00a0!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-2 wp-block-gallery-1 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/PXL_20240225_113311283-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"771\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"4362\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/PXL_20240225_113311283-771x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4362\" srcset=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/PXL_20240225_113311283-771x1024.jpg 771w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/PXL_20240225_113311283-226x300.jpg 226w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/PXL_20240225_113311283-768x1020.jpg 768w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/PXL_20240225_113311283-1157x1536.jpg 1157w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/PXL_20240225_113311283-1542x2048.jpg 1542w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/PXL_20240225_113311283-scaled.jpg 1928w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 771px) 100vw, 771px\" \/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Gopuram de face<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/PXL_20240226_120213197-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"771\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"4373\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/PXL_20240226_120213197-771x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4373\" srcset=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/PXL_20240226_120213197-771x1024.jpg 771w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/PXL_20240226_120213197-226x300.jpg 226w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/PXL_20240226_120213197-768x1020.jpg 768w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/PXL_20240226_120213197-1157x1536.jpg 1157w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/PXL_20240226_120213197-1542x2048.jpg 1542w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/PXL_20240226_120213197-scaled.jpg 1928w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 771px) 100vw, 771px\" \/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Gopuram de profil<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/PXL_20240225_115807637-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"4364\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/PXL_20240225_115807637-771x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4364\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Gopuram de pr\u00e8s<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/PXL_20240225_115014782-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"771\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"4363\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/PXL_20240225_115014782-771x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4363\" srcset=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/PXL_20240225_115014782-771x1024.jpg 771w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/PXL_20240225_115014782-226x300.jpg 226w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/PXL_20240225_115014782-768x1020.jpg 768w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/PXL_20240225_115014782-1157x1536.jpg 1157w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/PXL_20240225_115014782-1542x2048.jpg 1542w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/PXL_20240225_115014782-scaled.jpg 1928w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 771px) 100vw, 771px\" \/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Tout le monde pose<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/PXL_20240225_154300865-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"4365\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/PXL_20240225_154300865-771x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4365\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Un tout petit bout d&rsquo;int\u00e9rieur<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/PXL_20240226_111320747-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"771\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"4368\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/PXL_20240226_111320747-771x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4368\" srcset=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/PXL_20240226_111320747-771x1024.jpg 771w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/PXL_20240226_111320747-226x300.jpg 226w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/PXL_20240226_111320747-768x1020.jpg 768w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/PXL_20240226_111320747-1157x1536.jpg 1157w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/PXL_20240226_111320747-1542x2048.jpg 1542w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/PXL_20240226_111320747-scaled.jpg 1928w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 771px) 100vw, 771px\" \/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Palais royal<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/PXL_20240226_111840343-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"4370\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/PXL_20240226_111840343-771x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4370\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">En travaux<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/PXL_20240226_111443475-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"4369\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/PXL_20240226_111443475-771x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4369\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Le seul mobilier du lieu<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/PXL_20240226_110837809-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"4367\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/PXL_20240226_110837809-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4367\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Fa\u00e7ade charg\u00e9e<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/PXL_20240226_103528975-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"4366\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/PXL_20240226_103528975-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4366\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">C&rsquo;est bon, c&rsquo;est assez explicite ?<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/PXL_20240226_112051372-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"4371\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/PXL_20240226_112051372-771x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4371\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Rayon de soleil<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/PXL_20240226_112930265-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"4372\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/PXL_20240226_112930265-771x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4372\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Cath\u00e9drale locale<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Madurai J\u2019avais surv\u00e9cu \u00e0 la circulation chaotique, aux vaches sacr\u00e9es, \u00e0 la chaleur \u00e9touffante, \u00e0 la promiscuit\u00e9 des bus publics, et m\u00eame aux \u00e9l\u00e9phants sauvages.&hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[27],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-4359","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-inde"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4359","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=4359"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4359\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":4374,"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4359\/revisions\/4374"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=4359"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=4359"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=4359"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}