{"id":11031,"date":"2025-04-05T04:53:29","date_gmt":"2025-04-05T03:53:29","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/?p=11031"},"modified":"2025-04-05T04:53:30","modified_gmt":"2025-04-05T03:53:30","slug":"temoin-du-passe","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/?p=11031","title":{"rendered":"T\u00e9moin du pass\u00e9"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p><strong>San Juan del Sur<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u00c0 l\u2019exception de quelques art\u00e9facts pr\u00e9colombiens dans des mus\u00e9es, les cr\u00e9ations humaines les plus anciennes que j\u2019ai pu croiser depuis le d\u00e9but de cette saison 3 n\u2019avaient au mieux que 500 ans. Alors c\u2019est d\u00e9j\u00e0 bien 500 ans, \u00e7a repr\u00e9sente tout de m\u00eame quelques g\u00e9n\u00e9rations. Mais quand on place ces cinq si\u00e8cles dans une perspective europ\u00e9enne ou asiatique, c\u2019est un peu ridicule. Et ne parlons m\u00eame pas des pyramides.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Aussi quand j\u2019ai lu que le Nicaragua h\u00e9bergeait tout un tas de p\u00e9troglyphes vieux d\u2019au-moins 1500 ans, \u00e7a m\u2019a fait grandement plaisir, un petit ap\u00e9ro en attendant de croiser les incroyables ruines mayas un peu plus au nord. Or d\u2019apr\u00e8s le Lonely Planet, il est possible d\u2019en admirer un non loin de San Juan. Mais les explications qu\u2019il fournit pour l\u2019atteindre m\u2019ont paru pour le moins ambigu\u00ebs. Google Maps ne fait gu\u00e8re mieux, avec un point solitaire d\u00e9nomm\u00e9 \u00ab\u00a0Petroglyphs\u00a0\u00bb dans les collines au nord de la ville, sans route d\u2019acc\u00e8s, sans avis attach\u00e9, pas vraiment de quoi inspirer confiance. Et en interrogeant la propri\u00e9taire de ma guesthouse\u00a0: elle n\u2019a jamais entendu parler d\u2019une quelconque pierre grav\u00e9e dans la r\u00e9gion. Mais par un \u00e9tonnant concours de circonstances, j\u2019apprends qu\u2019un couple d\u2019Am\u00e9ricains r\u00e9sidant dans l\u2019auberge en revient\u00a0! <em>Damned<\/em>, si des <em>gringos<\/em> ont pu y aller, je me dois de relever le challenge. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Et j\u2019ai trouv\u00e9 le p\u00e9troglyphe. Pas si facilement, compl\u00e8tement au milieu de nulle part, sans aucune indication quelconque, mais il \u00e9tait bel et bien l\u00e0. Une superbe sc\u00e8ne de chasse vieille de 1500 ans. Non pas que j\u2019ai un grand amour pour les chasseurs, mais je fais la diff\u00e9rence entre un D\u00e9d\u00e9 bourr\u00e9 qui va traquer le sanglier tous les dimanches \u00ab\u00a0pour le sport\u00a0\u00bb, et une tribu de chasseurs-cueilleurs qui d\u00e9pend de cette viande pour survivre. Je trouve toujours impressionnant ces t\u00e9moignages d\u2019un pass\u00e9 lointain, a fortiori quand ceux-ci ne sont pas entour\u00e9s d\u2019une billetterie et de vendeurs de souvenirs. Le sentiment d\u2019\u00eatre le spectateur privil\u00e9gi\u00e9 d\u2019une \u00e9poque depuis longtemps r\u00e9volue, le t\u00e9moin du legs d\u2019un artiste \u00e0 une lointaine descendance inconnue. Et j\u2019imagine alors mes propres lointains descendants qui pourront un jour s\u2019\u00e9merveiller devant une cannette de Coca Light, un emballage de Doritos ou un fut de d\u00e9chets radioactifs, parfaitement pr\u00e9serv\u00e9s malgr\u00e9 les mill\u00e9naires. L\u2019arch\u00e9ologie a de beaux jours devant elle\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-2 wp-block-gallery-1 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250404_174216092-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"11033\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250404_174216092-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-11033\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">En construction<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250404_172520802-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"11032\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250404_172520802-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-11032\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">P\u00e2ture<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250404_183012276-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"11035\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250404_183012276-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-11035\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Et voil\u00e0 le gros caillou ! <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250404_182625201-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"771\" data-id=\"11034\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250404_182625201-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-11034\" srcset=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250404_182625201-1024x771.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250404_182625201-300x226.jpg 300w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250404_182625201-768x578.jpg 768w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250404_182625201-1536x1157.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250404_182625201-2048x1542.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Bon \u00e0 part les quelques graffitis sur l&rsquo;autre face, plut\u00f4t bien conserv\u00e9 !<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250404_185201244-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"771\" data-id=\"11036\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250404_185201244-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-11036\" srcset=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250404_185201244-1024x771.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250404_185201244-300x226.jpg 300w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250404_185201244-768x578.jpg 768w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250404_185201244-1536x1157.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250404_185201244-2048x1542.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Rasta chwal<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250404_191655470-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"11038\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250404_191655470-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-11038\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Patriarche<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250404_191032598-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"11037\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250404_191032598-771x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-11037\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Geai \u00e0 face blanche<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250404_195525736-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"11039\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250404_195525736-771x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-11039\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Va en paix mon fils !<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250404_200030201-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"11042\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250404_200030201-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-11042\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">San Juan vu d&rsquo;en haut<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250404_195547323-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"771\" data-id=\"11040\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250404_195547323-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-11040\" srcset=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250404_195547323-1024x771.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250404_195547323-300x226.jpg 300w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250404_195547323-768x578.jpg 768w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250404_195547323-1536x1157.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250404_195547323-2048x1542.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Ca a quand m\u00eame de la gueule<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250404_195607204-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"11041\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250404_195607204-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-11041\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Et parfois m\u00eame un c\u00f4t\u00e9 sauvage<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250404_201057460-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"11043\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250404_201057460-771x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-11043\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Avec quelques bicoques sympathiques<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250404_202203005-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"11044\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250404_202203005-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-11044\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Retour sur le plancher des vaches<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250404_203655186-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"11045\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250404_203655186-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-11045\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Il y a de la place \u00e0 mar\u00e9e basse<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250404_203940628-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"11046\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250404_203940628-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-11046\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Toujours sympa les reflets<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250404_204945203-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"11047\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250404_204945203-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-11047\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Il fallait bien un spot insta<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250404_205222519-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"771\" data-id=\"11048\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250404_205222519-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-11048\" srcset=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250404_205222519-1024x771.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250404_205222519-300x226.jpg 300w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250404_205222519-768x578.jpg 768w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250404_205222519-1536x1157.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250404_205222519-2048x1542.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Pourquoi s&#8217;emb\u00eater \u00e0 marcher quand on peut rouler<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250404_234219195-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"11049\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250404_234219195-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-11049\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Dernier coucher de soleil sur San Juan<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>San Juan del Sur \u00c0 l\u2019exception de quelques art\u00e9facts pr\u00e9colombiens dans des mus\u00e9es, les cr\u00e9ations humaines les plus anciennes que j\u2019ai pu croiser depuis le&hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[49],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-11031","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-nicaragua"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/11031","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=11031"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/11031\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":11050,"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/11031\/revisions\/11050"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=11031"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=11031"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=11031"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}