{"id":10993,"date":"2025-04-03T05:44:23","date_gmt":"2025-04-03T04:44:23","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/?p=10993"},"modified":"2025-04-03T05:44:23","modified_gmt":"2025-04-03T04:44:23","slug":"en-franchissant-la-ligne","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/?p=10993","title":{"rendered":"En franchissant la ligne"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p><strong>La Fortuna \u2192 San Juan del Sur \u2013 2 h 30 de bus, puis 3 h 15, une fronti\u00e8re \u00e0 franchir, \u00e0 nouveau 30 min de bus et enfin 1 h<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>En quittant mon domicile \u00e0 6 h ce matin, j\u2019ai enfin pu profiter de l\u2019\u00e9clatante vision d\u2019un Arenal parfaitement d\u00e9gag\u00e9. Sauf que j\u2019ai d\u00fb lui tourner le dos pour rejoindre mon bus, \u00e0 2 km de l\u00e0. S\u2019en est suivi une sympathique journ\u00e9e de transport. Quelques faits notables.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Dans mon dernier trajet costaricain, je ne sais pas si c\u2019est l\u2019influence du Nicaragua tout proche, mais \u00e0 deux reprises le bus s\u2019est arr\u00eat\u00e9 au milieu de nulle part pour que le chauffeur puisse passer vendre \u00e0 ses passagers une sorte de g\u00e9latine glac\u00e9e ainsi que des cacahu\u00e8tes. Dans bon nombre de pays, le moindre arr\u00eat permet habituellement \u00e0 divers vendeurs de s\u2019infiltrer dans le bus. Mais ceux-ci n\u2019existent pas au Costa Rica. Donc le chauffeur prend la rel\u00e8ve, car la demande est belle et bien l\u00e0. \u00c9tonnant.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Le passage de la fronti\u00e8re s\u2019est ensuite av\u00e9r\u00e9 plut\u00f4t simple\u00a0: achat de la \u00ab\u00a0taxe de sortie\u00a0\u00bb costaricaine\u00a0; coup de tampon\u00a0; \u00e9change de mes derni\u00e8res <em>colones<\/em> contre quelques premiers <em>cordobas<\/em> ; petite marche dans un no man\u2019s land en plein travaux\u00a0; longue file d\u2019attente c\u00f4t\u00e9 nicaraguayen\u00a0; p\u00e9age d\u2019une \u00ab\u00a0taxe municipale\u00a0\u00bb d\u20191 $ (en r\u00e9alit\u00e9 un pourboire pour les douaniers, mais bon, c\u2019est histoire de mettre les formes)\u00a0; p\u00e9age de la vraie taxe d\u2019entr\u00e9e nicaraguayenne\u00a0; interrogatoire cons\u00e9quent et suspicieux par une jeune douani\u00e8re z\u00e9l\u00e9e\u00a0; coup de tampon\u00a0; et voil\u00e0, un tout nouveau pays \u00e0 d\u00e9couvrir\u00a0! <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Sit\u00f4t quitt\u00e9 le b\u00e2timent, on se retrouve alors assailli par une nu\u00e9e de taxis pressants, qu\u2019il convient bien s\u00fbr de traverser d\u2019un air d\u00e9cid\u00e9 pour aller prendre son bus \u00e0 1 $ une centaine de m\u00e8tres plus loin. Un vieux car scolaire am\u00e9ricain reconverti. Bond\u00e9, lent, bruyant, chaotique, et avec vendeurs int\u00e9gr\u00e9s. Mais qui in\u00e9vitablement m\u00e8ne \u00e0 bon port. C\u2019est peut-\u00eatre b\u00eate, mais je me sens instantan\u00e9ment bien. Serais-je finalement un voyageur masochiste\u00a0?<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-2 wp-block-gallery-1 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250402_115126503-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"10994\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250402_115126503-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-10994\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Splendide vision matinale<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250402_120928240-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"771\" data-id=\"10995\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250402_120928240-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-10995\" srcset=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250402_120928240-1024x771.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250402_120928240-300x226.jpg 300w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250402_120928240-768x578.jpg 768w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250402_120928240-1536x1157.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250402_120928240-2048x1542.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Il se couvre d\u00e9j\u00e0<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250402_183156598-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"10996\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250402_183156598-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-10996\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Un coll\u00e8gue de l&rsquo;Arenal sur la route<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250402_194219911-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"10997\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250402_194219911-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-10997\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Fronti\u00e8re (il fait chaud)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250402_210615950-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"10998\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250402_210615950-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-10998\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Campagne nicaraguayenne<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250402_223804900-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"771\" data-id=\"10999\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250402_223804900-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-10999\" srcset=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250402_223804900-1024x771.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250402_223804900-300x226.jpg 300w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250402_223804900-768x578.jpg 768w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250402_223804900-1536x1157.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250402_223804900-2048x1542.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Arriv\u00e9e \u00e0 San Juan del Sur<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250402_230544979-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"11000\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250402_230544979-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-11000\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Sur la c\u00f4te Pacifique<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250402_234910463-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"11001\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250402_234910463-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-11001\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Pile face au soleil couchant<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250403_000409675-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"11002\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250403_000409675-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-11002\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Qui offre un cr\u00e9puscule&#8230;<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250403_002603412-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"11003\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/PXL_20250403_002603412-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-11003\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">&#8230; \u00e9tonnament long pour la r\u00e9gion !<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>La Fortuna \u2192 San Juan del Sur \u2013 2 h 30 de bus, puis 3 h 15, une fronti\u00e8re \u00e0 franchir, \u00e0 nouveau 30 min&hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[49],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-10993","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-nicaragua"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10993","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=10993"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10993\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":11004,"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10993\/revisions\/11004"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=10993"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=10993"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=10993"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}