{"id":10577,"date":"2025-03-13T03:07:10","date_gmt":"2025-03-13T02:07:10","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/?p=10577"},"modified":"2025-03-13T03:07:11","modified_gmt":"2025-03-13T02:07:11","slug":"salsa-brava","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/?p=10577","title":{"rendered":"Salsa Brava"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p><strong>Puerto Viejo<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Il y a ne serait-ce que quarante ans, rejoindre Puerto Viejo depuis San Jos\u00e9 relevait de l\u2019aventure, via des jeeps cahotantes sur une piste d\u00e9fonc\u00e9e. Pourquoi y aller dans ce cas\u00a0? Pour la Salsa Brava, ou \u00ab\u00a0sauce \u00e9pic\u00e9e\u00a0\u00bb, une vague mythique r\u00e9serv\u00e9e aux surfeurs aguerris. Entre d\u00e9cembre et janvier, quand les conditions sont l\u00e0, c\u2019est un v\u00e9ritable mur d\u2019eau de huit m\u00e8tres qui s\u2019\u00e9l\u00e8ve brutalement dans une petite anse jouxtant le village, avant de retomber sous la forme d\u2019un tube parfait. Si vous la surfez proprement, vous entrez dans la l\u00e9gende. Si vous vous loupez, eh bien\u2026 Disons que les chances de briser vos os ou a minima votre planche ne sont pas n\u00e9gligeables, car la vague termine sa course sur un r\u00e9cif affleurant particuli\u00e8rement tranchant. Son petit surnom\u00a0: la r\u00e2pe \u00e0 fromages\u2026 Le soir venu, les h\u00e9ros du jour encha\u00eenaient bi\u00e8res et joints avec les sympathiques locaux autour d\u2019un feu de camp, sur de lancinants airs de reggae, avant de s\u2019endormir sur la plage. Tandis que ceux qui surestimaient leurs talents repartaient en urgence \u00e0 l\u2019h\u00f4pital (et en l\u2019occurrence il valait tout de m\u00eame mieux que ce ne soit pas trop urgent). <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Quarante ans plus tard, une belle route asphalt\u00e9e permet de rejoindre Puerto Viejo depuis la capitale en 4 h 30. Et les bus sont plut\u00f4t ponctuels, d\u00e9versant chaque heure leurs cargaisons de touristes. Des h\u00f4tels rustiques \u00ab\u00a0de charme\u00a0\u00bb ont fleuri un peu partout (l\u2019id\u00e9e \u00e9tant de facturer une blinde une cabane au toit de t\u00f4le \u00e0 des Am\u00e9ricains na\u00effs en qu\u00eate d\u2019une \u00ab\u00a0vie plus simple au plus pr\u00e8s de la nature\u00a0\u00bb), m\u00eame si j\u2019ai pu encore apercevoir une ou deux tentes sur la plage, il y a toujours quelques puristes. Les bars sont devenus l\u00e9gions, mais les tarifs sont prohibitifs, pour encha\u00eener les bi\u00e8res mieux vaut aller faire le plein \u00e0 la sup\u00e9rette. Quelques odeurs suspectes me font dire que les joints n\u2019ont pas compl\u00e8tement disparu de la circulation. Un puissant reggae sort toujours des enceintes. Plut\u00f4t des ann\u00e9es 80-90 d\u2019ailleurs, on n\u2019a pas fait mieux depuis. Et la Salsa Brava est fid\u00e8le \u00e0 son poste. L\u2019avantage, c\u2019est qu\u2019on rejoint d\u00e9sormais plus rapidement l\u2019h\u00f4pital.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-2 wp-block-gallery-1 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/PXL_20250312_202344592-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"10578\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/PXL_20250312_202344592-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-10578\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">J&rsquo;en ai vu des vrais plus gros&#8230;<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/PXL_20250312_203741676-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"10579\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/PXL_20250312_203741676-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-10579\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Les agoutis, le lapin local<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/PXL_20250312_210144815-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"10581\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/PXL_20250312_210144815-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-10581\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Bicoque<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/PXL_20250312_211756791-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"10583\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/PXL_20250312_211756791-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-10583\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Jungle ouverte<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/PXL_20250312_211911096-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"10584\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/PXL_20250312_211911096-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-10584\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Fier destrier<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/PXL_20250312_213657904-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"771\" data-id=\"10585\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/PXL_20250312_213657904-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-10585\" srcset=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/PXL_20250312_213657904-1024x771.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/PXL_20250312_213657904-300x226.jpg 300w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/PXL_20250312_213657904-768x578.jpg 768w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/PXL_20250312_213657904-1536x1157.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/PXL_20250312_213657904-2048x1542.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Sculpteur de talent<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/PXL_20250312_204928901-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"10580\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/PXL_20250312_204928901-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-10580\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Plage intimiste&#8230;<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/PXL_20250312_215020113-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"10586\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/PXL_20250312_215020113-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-10586\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">&#8230; ou pour jouer au foot<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/PXL_20250312_221050226-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"771\" data-id=\"10588\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/PXL_20250312_221050226-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-10588\" srcset=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/PXL_20250312_221050226-1024x771.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/PXL_20250312_221050226-300x226.jpg 300w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/PXL_20250312_221050226-768x578.jpg 768w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/PXL_20250312_221050226-1536x1157.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/PXL_20250312_221050226-2048x1542.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Gros caillou<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/PXL_20250312_221515116-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"10589\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/PXL_20250312_221515116-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-10589\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Eh mais \u00e7a mouille !<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/PXL_20250312_220203668-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"10587\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/PXL_20250312_220203668-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-10587\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Il n&rsquo;y a pas que des vagues pour experts !<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/PXL_20250312_223705590-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"10591\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/PXL_20250312_223705590-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-10591\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Normalement la Salsa Brava est dans le coin, mais pas maintenant&#8230;<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/PXL_20250312_211734981-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"10582\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/PXL_20250312_211734981-771x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-10582\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">A bicyclette&#8230;<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/PXL_20250312_222805841-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"10590\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/PXL_20250312_222805841-771x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-10590\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Pas s\u00fbr qu&rsquo;elle marche<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/PXL_20250312_224009082-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"10593\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/PXL_20250312_224009082-771x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-10593\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Dis, dis, tu veux bien me lancer mon b\u00e2ton ???<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/PXL_20250312_232232849-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"10596\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/PXL_20250312_232232849-771x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-10596\"\/><\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/PXL_20250312_224320829-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"10594\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/PXL_20250312_224320829-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-10594\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Colloque<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/PXL_20250313_001147284-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"10597\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/PXL_20250313_001147284-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-10597\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Pour les Ricains nostalgiques du pays<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/PXL_20250312_223751460-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"10592\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/PXL_20250312_223751460-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-10592\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Fin d&rsquo;apr\u00e8m<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/PXL_20250312_230150343-scaled.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-id=\"10595\" src=\"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/PXL_20250312_230150343-1024x771.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-10595\"\/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Fin d&rsquo;apr\u00e8m bis<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Puerto Viejo Il y a ne serait-ce que quarante ans, rejoindre Puerto Viejo depuis San Jos\u00e9 relevait de l\u2019aventure, via des jeeps cahotantes sur une&hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[47],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-10577","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-costa-rica"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10577","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=10577"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10577\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":10598,"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10577\/revisions\/10598"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=10577"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=10577"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vadrouilles.xyz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=10577"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}